Koka në Stamboll Trupi ne Janine
Traditional Albanian song

When Lord Byron visited Albania in 1809 while he was on his Grand Tour with his friend John Hobhouse, he found much inspiration, writing his epic poem Childe Harold’s Pilgrimage based in part, on his experiences there, and finding himself accepted in a wild land on the fringes of Europe. Byron also acquired a traditional Albanian costume, which he wore in the famous portrait, the costume capturing the romantic splendour of the Romantic poet. Once in Albania, Byron met with Ali Pasha (1740-1822), an Albanian warlord who is now celebrated for fighting the Turks. Ali Pasha found his way into Byron’s epic poem:
‘I talk not of mercy, I talk not of fear;
He neither must know who would serve the Vizier;
Since the days of our prophet, the crescent ne’er saw
A chief ever glorious like Ali Pasha.’1
So who was this great Albanian who had made such an impact on Byron? Ali Pasha of Tepelena rose to prominence as a bandit, and his success brought him to the attention of the Ottomans, the warlord eventually gaining power over a territory that covered parts of southern Albania and northern Greece, and ruling from Ioannina, which is now situated in north western Greece. Ali Pasha admired Byron, and Ali certainly made a lasting impression on the poet, being referred to in Childe Harold and Don Juan. Indeed, in a letter to his mother, Byron described his meeting with Ali:
‘He told me to consider him as a father whilst I was in Turkey, & said he looked on me as his son. – Indeed he treated me like a child, sending me almonds & sugared sherbet, fruit & sweetmeats 20 times a day. – He begged me to visit him often, and at night when he was more at leisure – I then after coffee & pipes retired for the first time.’2
Ali Pasha had been expecting Byron, though when Byron arrived at Ioannina, Ali was away fighting on a brief campaign, and Byron then travelled to Ali’s home town of Tepelena to meet him. There is a theory, commented on by Byron scholar Peter Cochran, that Byron’s meeting with Ali Pasha may have been ‘encouraged’ to flatter Ali with his visit, with a view of getting Ali Pasha’s support for British interests in the Ionian Islands.3 If this indeed was the case, it would not be the last time that Byron would flirt with political intrigue.4 Byron later revisited memories of his meeting with Ali Pasha in that other epic poem of his, Don Juan, where he referred to the image of a fountain in the room:
‘A Marble fountain echoes through the glooms…’5
And the footnote from the bottom of the page that features the line from Stanza 55 presents the origin of this image:
‘A Common furniture. – I recollect being received by Ali Pacha in a room containing a marble bason and fountain &c. &c. &c.’6
The Canto recounts a tale of Ottoman seduction with a ‘black Eunuch’ leading ‘purchased Infidels’, and as Don Juan enters into the room, there is a hint at the sadness and the soullessness of the large empty room.7
After Byron left the hospitality of Ali Pasha for the Greek territories, he would meet Andreas Londros, who would later become a leader in the Greek war of independence, and a valued associate for Byron on his return there in 1823. Ali Pasha would meet his end in 1822, fighting the Turks. His head was cut off and presented to the Sultan Mahmud II. His body rests in a mausoleum next to the Fethiye Mosque in Ioannina.
Many thanks to Mevi Rafuna who inspired this post.
References
1. Byron, Childe Harold’s Pilgrimage, (LXXII).
2. BLJI228, taken from Peter Cochran, ‘Byron and Ali Pasha’, The Newstead Abbey Byron Society, p.10.
3. See Cochran, ‘Byron and Ali Pasha’, The Newstead Abbey Byron Society, pp.7-12.
4. See David Harrison, ‘Sex, Seduction, and Secret Societies: Byron, the Carbonari and Freemasonry’, Acta Macionica, Vol.27, (2017), pp.85-95.
5. Byron, Don Juan V, Stanza 55. See also Cochran, ‘Byron and Ali Pasha’, The Newstead Abbey Byron Society, p.10.
6. Byron, Don Juan V, Stanza 55.
7. Byron, Don Juan, V, Stanza 54.
George Castriot, otherwise known as Skanderbeg, was a legendary Albanian military leader of the fifteenth century, who successfully rallied his countrymen against the onslaught of the Ottoman Empire. So renowned was the reputation of Skanderbeg as a military leader, that he attracted many adventurers from other European countries to be drawn into his service. Adventurers such as Stefan Maramonte, who served as Skanderbeg’s Ambassador in 1457 and the Englishman John Newport, who served Skanderbeg around the same time, testify to this, some becoming close to Skanderbeg. Though little is known of John Newport, it is interesting to see how, despite the cultural divide, an Englishman could be found in Albania, fighting against the Ottomans in the service of such a renowned military leader such as Skanderbeg.
As Freemasons, we perceive God within geometry, we even see God represented as a geometrical image, as mathematical perfection. For example, the equilateral triangle becomes an image of the Trinity, which is a perception of a Christian form of God, and thus the common image of the all-seeing eye of God placed within the triangle, becomes apparent, three bringing completeness and stability. Geometry and the perfection it creates enabled the great Temples of antiquity to be constructed, and can be seen being practiced in ancient cultures, especially with the existence of the Egyptian Rhind Papyrus for example (BM 10057 and BM 10058) dated c.2000-1800 BC, and of course, by Pythagoras c.570-c.495 BC.
George Canning (1770-1827) has gone down in history as having served the shortest period as Prime Minister in Great Britain, but he also had another side to his life; he was a Freemason, he fought a duel, and was a critic of Britain’s slave trade. Indeed, Canning had been against slavery, stating in 1795 that:
The new book is in the final stages. It follows on with the themes of my previous book
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